Postcard from the Far East Dec12-Feb13

After overnighting in Singapore, I arrived in Colombo on 17 December and spent a lovely couple of days at the Cinnamon Lakeside Hotel, even though it was rather dull and wet!  On Wednesday 19^th my friend Captain Giovanni called on me at the hotel so that we could put the world to rights for a couple of hours over a drink or two before he flew home.  An hour later I embarked Minerva and for my three back-to-back cruises.  I caught up with my friend Jackie, who was also on this cruise, and after a safety drill we met up for drinks and were joined by another friend Barbara for dinner.

 

My first day on board I spent the morning soaking up the sunshine and in the afternoon visited the amazing Kelaniya Temple near to Colombo.  We arrived at Galle at 8am next morning and I went on an excursion to see the Koggala fisherman – they were fascinating but the rest of the tour was boring!  We then had two and a half days crossing the Indian Ocean in very heavy rain so lots of tapestry time!  We arrived in Port Blair in the Andaman Islands on a very grey day but at least it had stopped raining, so I was able to make a tour of Ross Island in the afternoon. That evening, Christmas Eve, we had carols, mince pies and mulled wine in the Orpheus Bar until midnight. 

Christmas Day thankfully was fine so Jackie and I spent it on the top deck, and we indulged in a Bucks Fizz as we passed Nacodam Island – a little volcanic island belonging to the Andamans.  The evening was rather strange – a gala dinner but no drinks before hand so everyone went into dinner at odd times and it was not well organised.  Jackie and I went to the Verandah Restaurant upstairs and after a while were joined by another couple so we had a foursome for Christmas dinner, this was followed by the Crew Show.  Not the most exciting of Christmas days!

On Boxing Day we cruised up the Yangon River arriving in Rangoon (Yangon) at 2.30 – and I watched our arrival, complete with dancers, from my balcony with ‘glass’ in hand. In the evening we visited the incredible Shwedagon Pagoda – I have never seen so many buddhas in one place, and so much gold everywhere!  The following morning, in glorious sunshine, we returned to Shwedagon to see it by day, and then visited the Reclining Buddha and toured around the sights of Rangoon.  In the afternoon we visited the General Aung San Museum, stopped at the home of Aung San Sue Khi, and had a memorable ‘Burmese’ tea at the House of Memories.  In the evening a local dance group came on board to give us a Burmese folkloric show.

On our last morning in Rangoon, we went out to visit Thanlyin which is 30 minutes outside Rangoon – there we took a horse and cart ride, visited Pagoda on an island, managed a little material shopping!  We then sailed from the country of golden pagodas for Malaysia.  After two days at sea, one in sunshine and the other in rain, we arrived in rainy Penang where I visited the amazing Kek Lok Si Temple – not quite so attractive this time as it did not have the usual lanterns scattered around.  That evening was of course New Year’s Eve, I stayed up to see the New Year in, but then disappeared to bed – the jollifications were not quite my scene!  After a morning at sea on New Year’s Day we arrived at Malacca where I went out to see rubber and palm oil plantations – interesting but not exciting and in pouring rain!  At 7pm that evening we sailed for Singapore, where we arrived at the strange new Cruise Terminal just before 8am on 2^nd January.

That morning Jackie and I went into Singapore City and did some shopping, and after a relaxing afternoon we went to the Fullerton Bay Hotel for cocktails with my nephew, Simon, and his wife, Seetha, and then dined at a Chinese Restaurant at One Fullerton.  The following morning we visited the new Marine Gardens close to the ship – Jackie then did her packing for her departure that evening and I met up with Simon and his daughter Natasha for lunch and a wander around the old part of Town.  We then drove to their home where I spent the rest of the day with them, returning to the ship late that evening. 

On Friday 4th January we sailed for Indonesia, arriving at Cirebon, Java, around lunchtime on Sunday 6^th – but there was a very strong wind and it made the tender journey ashore a pretty rough one so I was one of the many that did not make it.  The next day we were in Semarang, another city in Java, and in the afternoon I did a city tour in the most dreadful wet conditions, touring a temple in a downpour – we were soaked beyond words on return to the ship.  The following day was a hazy one at sea, then we arrived in Bali, the island of temples, very early on 9 January in poor conditions – blowing a gale and overcast, but thankfully not raining.  I did a scenic drive around a small part of the island and visited two temples, and relaxed on deck in the afternoon. Later that evening the wind blowing even harder so we left Bali early and anchored just of Lombok just before midnight.  In the morning I did a scenic drive to Senggigi beach – a pretty dire place with sewage, filth and black sand.  However most of us managed to search out a little hotel to walk into and lie by their pool without anyone questioning us!  Then back to the ship to sail into more bad weather en route Komodo, where we eventually arrived at just before midday on 11 January.  That afternoon I went on a walk to search out Komodo Dragons – a lizard like creature, which is the size of a crocodile and chase after you like a croc!  We found six of them - so a rewarding afternoon in cloudy but warm conditions.

On Saturday 8^th January we arrived in Sulawesi after a rather bumpy night on board!  Our first stop on this island was Makassar – in tipping rain, once again, we toured around seeing the Old Harbour, a Chinese temple and Fort Rotterdam.  On Sunday we sailed into our second port, Pare Pare, very early as some were going on an all-day excursion into the hills. I went on a wonderful walk around the market before the rains came again!  That evening we sailed early for no apparent reason – we heard nothing from the Captain, as so often happens, - for two days at sea. The first day it tipped down nearly all day, but I did get an invitation to the Hotel Director’s table for dinner, which was lovely.  The second day the weather was better, and we managed a Crossing Line Ceremony but by the time we arrived in Sandakan in Borneo on Wednesday 16^th, it was tipping down again.

Our morning was spent visiting Orangutans in torrential rain, not as good as the last time, thanks to the weather, after which we spent an hour or so walking around a very wet but beautiful Rain Forest.  In the afternoon the rain eased a little, so I went on quite an interesting tour around Colonial Sandakan.  The next day I felt lousy with a streaming cold but the sun tried to shine in the morning as we cruised the Sula Sea so I relaxed on the top deck for at least some of the day.  On Friday morning we arrived in Bohol to a wonderful quayside welcome.  I went off to see the smallest primate, Tarsiers, and we managed to catch a glimpse of 2 or 3, and then went to see the Chocolate Hills. I did managed to climb 214 steps to get a good view but sadly the rains came down again so we saw grey rather than chocolate hills! After another cloudy day at sea, we arrived in Manila at 7am on Sunday 20 January.  The sun did try to shine that day and I did a tour of Downtown Manila, albeit with a very bad guide, which was sad.  It was great to see the crew enjoy a day with their families – we had around 600 visitors on board! 

After two days at sea, one of which we actually saw blue sky all day for the first time since Burma four weeks ago, we arrived in Hong Kong on a rather grey, misty and cool day, which I spent walking the streets of Kowloon. In the evening I went over to the Island to meet up with a friend for a very nice dinner at the Hyatt. Next day, Thursday 24^th January, I went on a lovely excursion to the Chi Lin Buddhist Nunnery – a very peaceful place with a lovely garden to walk around.  After that we had a brief visit to the Jade Market before returning to the ship as most of the passengers were leaving that afternoon.  To get out of their way I took myself over to the Island again and went material searching in the Lanes, which was fun.  Found two reasonably-priced pieces!  On the final morning in HK the sun tried to shine and I took a bus to Stanley Market where I spent an hour or so before linking up with a Swan coach, which was going back to the ship.  That evening we sailed for Vietnam at 7pm.

On Sunday 27^th we sailed into Halong Bay on a cool damp morning and in the afternoon I went on a cruise of the Bay in rather cold conditions – it was good to re-visit but it was a shame to be so cold!  The following morning most passengers went to Hanoi, but having been twice before I did a tour of Haiphong and the Red River Delta to see the real Vietnam!  Quite a fun morning but very cloudy and cool! After another cool day at sea we arrived at Danang and at long last the sun came out.  Spent the morning in Hoi An shopping for materials.  It is a delightful little Vietnamese town but is now becoming rather touristy!

On 31^st January we called into Qui Nhon, the first time for Minerva.  Not particularly exciting and all a bit chaotic as it was new to the guides and the coach drivers too but we visited a local museum, saw a martial arts display and climbed up to see Cham Towers.  That evening I was invited to the Cruise Director’s table – just four of us so a fun evening.  On Friday 1^st February we arrived in the pretty port of Nha Trang and I did an enjoyable tour around rural Nha Trang, visiting a temple, market, school, rice field, mat weavers, etc.  Then we sailed at lunchtime for Saigon [Ho Chi Minh City].  The following morning was spent cruising up the Saigon River, thankfully in sunshine at last, and we arrived in Ho Chi Minh City at 12.30pm.  In the afternoon I took some materials into the City, where I found a dressmaker to copy some of my dresses.   The following morning I walked around the City for a couple of hours before picking up my dresses - one is very good, but the other two will need a little adjustment when I get to Singapore!  In the afternoon I relaxed on the top deck and on my balcony as we transited the Saigon River.  The following day was a lovely sunny day at sea, so at last my tan is improving!  I met up with some friends for dinner á trois, we continued on to the Crew Show and back to the Bar afterwards for a long evening!

On Tuesday 5 February we arrived at Sihanoukville in Cambodia.  I went off on a tour of the town and the fishing village of Tumnuk Rolok in the morning and then spent the afternoon relaxing by the pool of the Sokha Resort.  The next day we were at sea, and I was invited to a party in a suite followed by dinner with the suite residents, which was good fun.  Somewhere around 5am we arrived in Bangkok on Thursday 7 February.  I spent the morning on the ship and visiting a dressmaker in the Port who helped me to adjust my Vietnamese dresses.  In the afternoon I went on a leisurely drive around Bangkok, visiting a couple of temples and the Royal Pavilion – but a lot of time was spent in the usual Bangkok traffic jams!  Friday was a quiet morning on board, having seen enough of Bangkok traffic, and at lunchtime we sailed for Koh Samui.  In the evening I was invited to join some friends for drinks and dinner, which was fun. We anchored at Koh Samui on Saturday 9^th February and I took an excursion to Peace Resort which was not the best of beaches but at least I got a swim or two in their pool. 

We then had two days at sea – one in reasonable weather and the other grey and windy so I finished my second tapestry!  On Tuesday 12^th we arrived in cloudy and damp Singapore so I went off to lunch with nephew Simon and his wife Seetha, which was great and a relief to get off the ship.  In the evening I met up with some old Minerva friends who were due to get on board after I had left the ship.  On Wednesday 13^th I disembarked and took a taxi to the Hyatt to settle in there for a few days.  Did a bit shopping the afternoon and in the evening Simon, Seetha and I had a Mexican dinner on Dempsey Hill.  It was pretty wet in Singapore over the next few days so I relaxed in my room catching up with myself.  On the last evening I had a wonderful curry dinner at the home of Simon and Seetha and on Saturday morning I took the ferry across to Bintan.   Had a poor reception on arrival, but eventually got to the pool by 2pm, and the sun came out through rather hazy cloud for the afternoon.  Sadly the visit was another expensive disaster.  The sun only came out for one day in the three, and on the sunny day I slipped on getting out of the pool and badly grazed my shin and sprained a muscle in my back.  So back to Singapore, poorer in pocket for very little pleasure. 

 

Had a final lovely evening with Simon and Seetha – drinks and nibbles at my hotel, and then some tapas off Orchard Street.  The next day I had a bit of a hiccup with my seating on my BA flight, when trying to check-in but after reporting back to London, I got my original seat back and a fairly painless flight home, arriving at Heathrow to find some rather wintery weather!