Postcard from Antarctica to Antigua Feb-March 08

I had a very good flight from LHR to Buenos Aires via Sao Paulo, and although a little late arrived at my hotel, the Sofitel, by 1.30pm on Friday 8 February. In the late afternoon met up with my friend, Ralph Ayling, and enjoyed a long chat over a couple of glasses of bubbly. Then had an early night. Spent a quiet Saturday in BA ready for departure to Ushuaia early the next morning.

On Sunday 10 February, after a slightly delayed flight, we arrived in Ushuaia, the beautiful little southernmost city of the world, soon after 3pm and embarked on Discovery only a short while later. Then went off for a quick walk around Ushuaia before returning for the safety drill and then watched us depart for Antarctica. The next day we cruised Drake Passage, which was unusually calm, but saw no wildlife at all. The next day, Tuesday, it was all change due to a medical emergency. A passenger had fallen and broken her hip so we had to go into Maxwell Bay instead of Deception Island to unload the passenger. We stayed there all day and did zodiac cruises to see the Gentoo penguins. It was bitterly cold, and you needed thermals, two or three sweaters, parkas and hats, not to mention Wellington boots with two socks, as well as over-trousers, and two pairs of gloves! But it was a fun short cruise in the zodiac in Antarctic waters! As we were leaving that evening saw whales and penguins around the ship.


On Wednesday 13th I woke up at 6.45am to find icebergs around us, so got up fast to go outside. As I was emerging we hear from the Captain that the wind is too strong to allow us into Hope Bay so we spend the day cruising Antarctic Sound and the Weddell Sea. We cruised down what is known as Iceberg Alley for hours. It was the most incredible day – freezing cold, the temperature hovering around zero, but the wind chill factor made it feel colder, and at times very windy – it was blowing at 66 knots at one stage. We saw hundreds of icebergs – all absolutely stunning in all shapes and sizes, some like castles, ships and particularly sinking ships!, plane hangers, crowns, pyramids, waterfalls. Many so enormous you can’t believe it, and of course they go downwards about nine times the size they are above the water! All totally amazing! We also saw quite a few whales and one or two seals. That evening was a quiet Captain’s Welcome reception and dinner and an early bed.

Thursday I was up and about on deck at 6am to watch us cruise through incredible scenery – a bit like cruising through the Alps – it was all so beautiful on a gloriously sunny but cold morning! Eventually we pulled into Paradise Harbour where we cruised up to Waterboat point. As I was in the last group to go ashore to visit the Gentoo penguins I spent the morning on the top deck soaking up the glorious sunshine, but with about six layers of clothes on! By 1pm we were called to our zodiac to go ashore. En route to the penguin island we suddenly spotted a minke whale, so our driver got nearer and cut the engine, and the whale circled us a couple of times – absolutely wonderful! We also saw some dolphins jumping around. Then went off to see the darling, but smelly! penguins for an hour before returning to the ship. I watched us sail back up through the Paradise Bay and through some stunning icebergs with penguins leaping around us. Another amazing day!

On Friday morning we awoke to a very grey, wet and windy day, and our first landing in Orne Harbour was cancelled because of the wind – the zodiacs would have flown away. So we set off for Wilhelmena Bay, whale, seal, penguin and bird-watching all the way. Saw quite a few hump backs, one or two seals and few Antarctic birds. Once there it was getting too icy and very windy, so we moved on to Dallmann Bay but that too was unforgiving. Very windy and raining hard, so the Captain took the decision to say goodbye to Antarctica and set sail for Drake Passage, which, after a slightly rough night, was reasonably smooth for us the following day. On Sunday 17th we entered the Chilean fjords and had a spectacular day cruising through them – saw many birds, including two condors! On Monday 18 February we arrived in Punta Arenas early in the morning – the heart of Patagonia. I went off to Otway Sound to see the wonderful Magellanic penguins – a cold but enjoyable morning walking amongst them. In the afternoon I wandered around the town and did some shopping, and we then set off on three days of cruising through the Chilean fjords. Saw one or two points of interest, like the Skua Glacier in Amalia Fjord, the English Narrows, which are VERY narrow!, a shipwreck or two, the little Indian village of Tortel which is only accessible by boat [Discovery is the only ship to visit!], not to mention the odd condor, penguins and seals!



On Friday 22 February we eventually arrived in Puerto Montt. I walked around the little town in the morning and as the sun came out spent the rest of the day on the top deck. It is a stunning little town, surrounded by volcanoes, which gave us all a beautiful view as we departed at 6 o’clock that evening. After a cool day at sea, we arrived in Valparaiso on a glorious morning – not a cloud to be seen. I went on a rather average wine tasting tour, but at least it enabled me to stock up my cabin bar! After the wine tasting we made a tour of Vina del Mar and Valparaiso before returning to the ship for an afternoon on the top deck!

The following day at sea was a cool one, and then at 7am on Tuesday 26 February we arrived at Robinson Crusoe Island. We were tendered ashore and I spent a couple of hours walking around this delightful but lonely little island where there are only 500 inhabitants. Saw many incredible little houses, including one made of bottles, and saw seals playing off the pebble beaches. Thankfully the sun had come out that day, so once I returned to the ship I went straight to the top deck! And then we set sail for four days at sea, arriving at Easter Island at 11.30 on the morning of Saturday 1 March. I took the tender ashore and walked for an hour uphill to try and visit a volcano but having taken a wrong turning, decided to walk back into Hanga Roa, where I walked through the little town and visited the famous Moai figures in the town, before returning to the ship 3 hours later. It was a lovely walk but very hot and dirty in the red dust of the roads. The next morning I went off on a 5 hour excursion to visit many extraordinary Moai sites – some on volcanoes, some on beaches – all quite amazing, even though I have seen them before. Back to the ship around 2pm and then we set sail for five days at sea. Thankfully they were smooth and sunny days, and except for one evening when I was at the Captain’s table [which was not the most stimulating of events!], it was a quiet five days. Did see a whale and a school of dolphins on the last day.

On Saturday 8 March we eventually reached Arica and I went out into the Atacama Desert to see geoglyphs and tutelar figures. Whilst at the figures we had a dance show and some pisco sours! I then walked around Arica to top up my bar before returning to the ship for an afternoon in the sunshine. The next day we were at sea cruising towards Callao/Lima and in the morning the sea was alive with life – so many dolphins and seals you could hardly believe it! Early on the morning of Monday 10 March we arrived at the port of Callao, from where you can drive into Lima. I went on an excellent excursion around a monastery and two convents in Lima and we drove around the city and some of the suburbs in the process. It was better in that it was a small group, which included the Captain and his wife! After visiting the artisan shops on the quayside, where I bought a smart alpacha waistcoat, I returned to the ship and spent the afternoon in the sunshine. We then set sail for two days at sea. On the first evening I had dinner with the Staff Captain, Chief Electrician and his partner which was fun, and on the second night it was another ‘farewell’ party.

At 5.30am on the morning of Thursday 13 March we arrived in Manta, and by 7am [30 minutes late] some of us were on our way by air to the Galapagos islands for the day. In the morning I went by boat to see iguana, boobys and sea lions and then on to Kicker Rock before going to a beach for a swim. However we were plagued by large horseflies on the beach who kept stinging us so back to our little boat to escape and then back to the main town of Puerto Baquerizo. From there we were bused to the highlands of the island for an excellent lunch in a local restaurant. In the afternoon we walked a nature trail on the island hunting for tortoises, but only found about 5-6 of them. We eventually arrived back in Manta at 8.30pm and were back on the ship by 9pm. So I relaxed in my cabin with room service. The next morning I decided to try and find the artisan shops which sell my much-loved Ecuadorian shawls but failed dismally, so in the end I went on an excursion which took me to see Panama hats being made, tagua buttons being made, and finally to Montecristi, where I found my Ecuadorian stoles, so I was happy. The Captain and wife were on my excursion and she went out and bought lots of these stoles too!

At 7am on Saturday 15 March I left on a two hour bus trip down to Isla de la Plata. It was great to watch Ecuadorian life along the way and then on arrival at Puerto Lopez we boarded little boats and were speeded out to the island. There we were taken in small groups on a two-hour walk across the island and back looking for birds. It was very hot but a good walk. Sadly in the midday sun there were not that many birds flying around although once we got to the other side there were a few blue-footed boobys and lots of frigates. Once back to our starting point, we speeded back to the mainland and after a good lunch in a lovely nearby hotel we had our two hour bus drive back to the ship. Our bus had a burst tyre but fortunately we were in convoy so we all transferred to another bus and were back by 6.30pm. Sunday was a day off – resting on the ship, with new passengers arriving all day.

On Monday 17 March I set off at 8am for Bahia and Bird Island. A wonderful coach journey into the heart of Ecuador where we saw real life as we travelled for two hours north of Manta to Bahia. Once there we boarded a little boat, about of 12 of us per boat, and we travelled around Bahia and particularly around Bird Island where we saw many birds, and especially frigates who were fishing all around us. It was a wonderful morning watching ‘nature’. After lunch, which I avoided and just nibbled plantains, we visited the local archaeological museum, drove around the little town and then headed back to Manta. We were delayed about an hour by a broken down bus which we couldn’t get past, but eventually arrived back on the ship by 6.30 in the evening. A lovely day! The next day was a quiet one on the ship, but I met up with my friends Anne and Martin in the evening. We sank a bottle of champagne in my cabin and then had a lovely dinner in the Yacht Club.

On Wednesday 19 March I was up very early and at 6am I set off for the airport once again. We eventually took off for Santa Cruz in the Galapagos at about 7.45 and arrived at Baltra Island at 9.30am. From there we were ferried across to Santa Cruz Island and set off down to Puerto Ayora and the Charles Darwin Centre where we saw some incredible tortoises including the 100 year old Lonesome George. We had quite a few organisational problems but it was a good morning wandering around among the tortoises. Then I walked in Puerto Ayora and saw pelicans, seals and sting-rays in the harbour before meeting up with the bus again and we drove into the Highlands for lunch, after which we walked around the area and saw lots of giant tortoises in the wild. We arrived back at the airport around 6pm but our flight was very delayed and we didn’t arrive back at the ship until 10.15pm [a very long day of over 16 hours] and our late arrival back at the port delayed the departure of Discovery! I watched us depart at 10.45 pm and then retired to my cabin for a strong drink or two!

The next day was thankfully a day at sea to relax and catch up, and in the evening it was the Welcome party for the next cruise, but for me it was the Farewell party! After dinner I caught up with my friends, Anne & Martin, for a nightcap before hitting the sack. In the morning we arrived in Panama a little late and I took a tender ashore with all my luggage at about 11 o’clock. My car took a while to arrive but I was soon ensconced in the Riande Aeropuerto Hotel and spent the afternoon by the pool. On Saturday 22nd March I flew from Panama to San Juan and then from San Juan to Antigua and arrived in my lovely suite at the Carlisle Bay Hotel at about 7.45pm where I spent the evening unpacking and sorting myself out.

Easter Day was spent quietly on the beach soaking up the glorious Caribbean sunshine and in fact I spent the rest of Easter week on the beach, which was just wonderful. Had a quiet dinner in the restaurant each evening, and was usually asleep by 9.30pm! On Friday 29 March I flew home, thankfully to Gatwick and to Terminal Five, although even there the luggage for Club Class passengers got lost for an hour and to add to the problems you now need a coin to get yourself a luggage trolley at Gatwick. The joys of travel!