Postcard from South America Jan-Feb 2007
Postcard from Barbados and Minerva
on her swansong around South America
I left a very foggy Gatwick on Thursday 21 December and arrived safely in Barbados at 7.15 that evening and checked into the reasonably comfortable Bougainvillea Beach Resort in Christchurch on the south coast of the island. The first day was spent stocking up my kitchenette and sorting out my computer, but after that I did nothing but soak up the sun. I spent most of my first week just lying in the sunshine by the quiet pool [where there were not too many kids!],swimming in the pool and occasionally have a bounce around in the waves which you get on the south coast of Barbados. Most evenings I relaxed in my room. On week two I rang up a few friends and on the Friday had a lovely lunch at the beautiful Champers near Accra Beach with some old diplomatic Bajan friends which was good fun. Other than that I continued in the style of week one until Thursday 4 January when I packed up and left for Minerva.
I arrived at Minerva mid afternoon to start my 66 day cruise and met up with lots of old crew friends. Was able to unpack and sort myself out before any of the UK planes arrived. In the evening met up with my old friend Richard [the out-going Captain] and his wife Ada – we had drinks and dinner together and then had a nightcap in the Orpheus Bar with some other friends before hitting the sack! The next morning I did a tour of Historic Barbados and went shopping in the Terminal and in Bridgetown in the afternoon.
After a lovely day at sea and a rather average Welcome Party, we arrived at La Guaira, the port of Caracas at 7am and I set off on a slow bus trip to Caracas by 9am. The road was slow as the main bridge collapsed last year and they are now building a new bridge. Had a great cable car trip up to the top of Mount Avila with spectacular views of Caracas, and then visited Quinta Anauco Colonial Museum and the National Pantheon before returning to the ship for a 4pm departure for Aruba. That evening had dinner with a couple of my ‘gay’ friends before retiring to an early cot. On Monday 8 January we arrived in Aruba at 8am and soon after I took myself on a walking tour of the town, Oranjestad. Having been there before I just wandered around to remind myself of the place before returning to the top deck to soak up the beautiful sunshine. We sailed for Curacao at 1pm. After spending the afternoon on the top deck I wandered into Willemstad, the capital of Curacao, on our arrival there at 6.15pm. However it was dark and it was not easy to wander around so I swiftly returned to the ship and joined a nice table for dinner. On Tuesday 9th January we arrived in Guaranao Bay at 6.30am and an hour later I was on a bus en route for Coro, a delightful little Venezuelan town. Sadly I had a bad guide, but met up with Gerry, a cheerful guy, and we took a walk around the town once we got rid of the guide. Then back to the top deck for the afternoon. In the evening there was a lovely party for all singles on the 66 day cruise and we all had dinner together afterwards which was fun. Wednesday was a day at sea so I spent it on the top deck and in the evening had a very nice dinner with the Cruise Director and Cruise Manager and one other passenger – all very select!
On Thursday 11 January we approached the Panama Canal early in the morning and by 10am I went on to the Bridge to spend the morning there watching us go through the Locks. It was a wonderful morning – in the company of the retired First Sea Lord! Around 12.30 I was invited to some friends who have a suite on the front of the ship for a drink as we emerged from the last Gatun Lock. After a fun lunch with some newly made friends as we sailed through Gatun Lake, I went back to the Bridge to watch us go through Pedro Miguel and Miraflores Locks before arriving in Balboa. That evening I joined some of my Swan friends for a great Indian Buffet in the Bridge Café. Early the following morning I was up and off on an excursion to visit Miraflores Lock and see the exhibition that they have there, and in the afternoon I went on a walking tour of Colonial Panama and also drove through the city as it is today and then visited Old Panama which is now just ruins. We got back to the ship just in time for her to sail at 6pm for Ecuador. In the evening went to a good reception for all those on board for 66 days followed by a nice table at dinner. The following day was a day at sea doing not very much! It was a bit grey for most of the day so caught up with some computer work in my cabin. In the evening met up with an old Minerva friend [Michael Latham] and his partner for dinner and then had an early night.
On Sunday 14 January we arrived in Manta, Ecuador around 4.30am! A large group of people were leaving early for a day trip to Quito. I went on a trip around Manta to see how Panama hats are made, to visit a Tagua [nut] factory to see how buttons and crafts are made from these nuts and to visit the local museum – very interesting morning. Back for lunch and in the afternoon we had Andean Indian folklore dancers on board performing for us. In the evening I met up with some old Minerva friends [Tudeimans] and we dined in the Grill, after which I bumped into my good friend Niranjan, the Chef, and we had a good few nightcaps in the Orpheus bar. The following day was at sea – spent the morning on the top deck and saw some whales playing quite close by. In the afternoon we had the Crossing the Line ceremony having just crossed the Equator, and in the evening it was the Farewell Dinner for the first cruise and I had a very good fun table.
We arrived in Salaverry on Tuesday 16 January at about 6.30am and by 9.15 I was on my way to visit the little town Trujillo and from there to the two Moche Temples – of the Sun and the Moon. In the afternoon I visited the adobe city of Chan Chan and saw the Dragon Temple and the Tschudi Palace – a day of incredible archaeological sites. In the evening I was invited to a lovely drinks party in a suite with some friends [John & Jan] and then we all went on to dinner followed by nightcaps! The next morning I was up and about early and saw whales from my balcony window. We had a morning at sea before arriving at Callao at midday and in the afternoon I went on quite a good walking tour of Down Town Lima. In the evening those of us on the 66 day cruise were invited to a private champagne reception at Larco Herrara Museum which was interesting and fun – then back to the ship for a snack supper. The following morning I went to visit Pachacama – an Inca site of palaces and pyramids followed by a visit to the wonderful Lima Gold Museum. In the afternoon I took myself off into the Miraflores area of Lima for a wander around the shops. That day MV Discovery had sailed into Callao for the day – I heard that my friend the Captain was on board but getting off the ship that day – but I sadly didn’t find him. Watched her sail in the evening, and had a quiet dinner with old friends and new.
On Friday 19 January I visited a Hacienda to watch a wonderful display of Paso horses in the morning, then returned to the ship to watch us sail for General San Martin, another coastal Peruvian town, at 3pm. In the evening we had the Welcome Party and I joined friends [Vaughan-Frances] at quite a good table, had a drink by the pool afterwards and had a chat with Captain Mark en route bed! Very early the next morning we arrived at General San Martin a small place in the coastal Peruvian desert and watched seals playing in the sea around the ship. I went off on a tour of Paracas National Park, visiting a wonderful little fishing village in the middle of the desert, a museum and a fantastic rock formation, then back to the top deck. We sailed for Matarani at 4 o’clock that afternoon. In the evening I joined an interesting American couple [Lloyd & Marianne] for dinner. Sunday 20 January was a day at sea which I spent on the top deck in glorious sunshine, although I went to a ‘singles’ party at lunchtime which wasn’t up to much! Saw quite a lot of sea life that day including whales and dolphins. In the evening had a rather difficult dinner table but then enjoyed a drink with some of my Swan friends around the pool.
On Monday morning, 22 January, I left on a day-long trip to Arequipa – a wonderful day touring Santa Catalina monastery, as well as the cathedral and various churches in Arequipa, and enjoying a lovely lunch up there. Back in the evening to enjoy a relaxing dinner with my Swan friend, Paul Cranny and some other guests. Early on Tuesday 23 January we arrived in Arica in Chile, and at 9am I went off on a tour of the little town of Arica and saw some lovely Chilean dancing during our tour. In the afternoon I went on a wonderful coastal walk with some fantastic views and saw lots of birds and sea lions. We sailed for Valparaiso at 8pm after which I had a quiet evening and an early night. The next day was a day at sea which I spent on the top deck and during the day spotted sharks, dolphins and flying fish. In the evening I was invited to a lovely dinner party with five old friends [Duncan, V-Frances, Plattens]. Thursday 25th was another day at sea which once again I spent on the top deck in glorious sunshine and had a quiet dinner in the evening.
On Friday 26 January we arrived in Valparaiso in Chile, just ahead of the Queen Mary 2 so we were able to watch her arrive. In the morning I went on a short walking tour of Valparaiso with their amazing little houses perched on edges of mountains all over the town. After a swift lunch I went on a wine tasting trip to Indominta winery in the Casablanca valley – an excellent afternoon under cloudless skies. In the evening I dined with the Catholic priest [Father Brian] who is an old friend even if I am not a catholic! Saturday was a day at sea spent of course on the top deck – blue blue sky and a slightly chilly wind but I found a protected corner and spent the day in the sunshine. In the evening one of my Swan friends, Matt, came for drinks on my balcony – we downed a couple of pisco sours – and then had an Indian dinner in the Bridge Café. After a couple of nightcaps in the Orpheus bar I retired to bed!
On Sunday morning we cruised up the Chilean fjords to Chiloé island and in the afternoon I did a tour of some of the churches on the island. Then had a quiet dinner and earlyish bed. The following morning we arrived in Puerto Montt very early and by 7.30 I was off on a tour of Petrohué Falls and Lake Llanquihue as well as Lake Todos Los Santos – quite a good but rather damp morning and we could not see the nearby volcanoes. In the afternoon the sun came out as I went off on a wonderful tour of Frutillar and Puerto Varas with a good guide and we saw the stunning volcanoes very well. In the evening a quiet dinner table and an early night. On Tuesday 30 January we spent the morning cruising through the Chilean fjords until we reached Chacabuco, a tiny port in the south of Chile. Most of us were taken on a wonderful drive through scenic countryside along the Rio Simpson to Coyaique, the capital of Patagonia. Coyaique itself was not much of a place but I enjoyed the drive there and back stopping occasionally along the way for various views. We arrived back at the ship quite late but I had a nice dinner table after which I had another early night. However it became quite rough during the night so didn’t get much sleep as we rocked and rolled and shuddered our way across the Pacific Ocean! And so we started our four days at sea cruising around Cape Horn to the Falklands. I spent the first day watching the wonderful scenery from my cabin and in the evening I was the guest of one of the Swan staff [Pru] for a nice dinner party and a few nightcaps afterwards. On the second day I was up fairly early to see the Amalia Glazier, where two ice flows meet, an amazing sight and then we cruised on through the fjords all day. It was now getting colder and colder and at times very windy indeed – so windy in fact that the Captain forbade us to go on the outside decks at one time! In the evening I met up with three of my Swan girlfriends [Lynn, Lucy & Julia] and we had a lovely girlie evening! The next morning we continued our way through the fjords and entered the Magellan Straits – a few rough moments but on the whole a relatively smooth passage to Puerto Williams, the southern most Chilean town, where we anchored for an hour to get clearance to go around Cape Horn. From there I saw so many birds it was incredible – islands of cormorants, penguins flying through the sea rather like dolphins, and many many others. By 8.30pm we had arrived at Cape Horn, and we slowly sailed around the Horn – a truly amazing experience. So rugged and desolate and yet with a craggy beauty!
On Sunday 4 February we arrived in the Falkland Islands. To start with the wind was too great to allow us on to the tenders, but eventually the Captain was allowed to take us further into Port William Sound and so we were eventually able to disembark into tenders. I went to Sparrow Cove – a beautiful bay surrounded by rough terrain and from there in a 4x4 across this extraordinary countryside to Kidney Cove to spend an hour at the Gentoo and King Penguin colony – a wonderful but bitterly cold morning. Then back to the ship for a quick bite of lunch before going ashore to Port Stanley where I went on a walking tour of the delightful and colourful little town. The people were very friendly and you could see many different species of geese, ducks, birds etc all around you. I returned to the ship quite late, for a quick change, quiet dinner and early night. We spent the night sailing around from East Falklands to West Falklands and past some amazing little islands until we arrived at West Point Island around midday on Monday morning – the sea there was full of penguins and birds of all sorts and kinds. I took a tender ashore and walked for half an hour across the island to Devil’s Point, seeing Upland Geese and Striated Caracara as we walked. At Devil’s Point we found so many Rockfeller Penguins and Black-browed Albatross that we couldn’t believe it! We were so close to them all – most of them with chicks – absolutely wonderful –and we are able to spend about 30-40 minutes there. I then made the half hour walk back to the tender and on to the ship. That night was pretty rough as we crossed from the Falklands to the Magellan Straits and we continued to roll and bounce along all morning too! The afternoon was a little better and in the evening I went to the Farewell Party for cruise two! Met up with some old friends [V-Fraqnces] and we dined together with a few others in the dining room, followed by a nightcap before I went to bed.
Early Wednesday 7 February we arrived in Punta Arenas, The Antarctica Gate!, and I went of on a City Tour in the morning. It was bitterly cold but it was quite an enjoyable tour of the little southern most city. In the afternoon I went on a drive to Port Famine and Fort Bulnes – they were not the most interesting of places but the drive to and from was wonderful – saw guanacos [like lamas], rhea [like ostriches], dolphins and loads of sea birds as we drove along through the wonderful countryside. In the evening I met up with some new friends [Underwoods] for dinner, plus nightcaps and dancing afterwards which was good fun. In the morning I went on an hour and a half bus journey to Otway Sound. We drove through some amazing scenery across ranch after ranch after ranch. It was absolutely freezing at Otway sound – with about five layers on I kept warm, but my face was stinging because of the biting wind which was so strong you could only just stand up, let alone walk for twenty minutes to the Magellanic penguin colony. However, once there, it was absolutely incredible to see them all with their chicks and in their burrows. Am amazing morning. On our way back to the ship we saw rhea and alpacha to name but a few! After lunch I strolled into Town for a wander but soon returned to the warmth of the ship. In the evening about 100 of us went to a local estancia for a wonderful barbeque and show, and then home to an early night.
On Friday morning, 9 February, I went on a long walk through the Magallanes Reserve Park – a good, if cold walk high up into the Park with some stunning views from the top. Back to a little lunch and a quiet afternoon in my cabin followed by a nice dinner in the Swan Restaurant with old friends [Dorlings]. The next day was a quiet day at sea although the weather was far from quiet – winds gusting at 100mph in the afternoon. Went to the Singles party at lunchtime and met up with the Bishop of Norwich, an old friend of mine. He and his wife and I then went on to have lunch together. In the late evening we attempted to round Cape Horn for the second time, but this time we failed – the weather was too bad – the wind was gusting at 100mph! At 6.30am on Sunday 11 February we arrived in Ushuaia [Ush-why-a] the capital of Tierra del Fuego – the southern most island of South America which is half Chilean and half of Argentinean. It was a gorgeous, if cool, morning - the snow-capped mountains all around the little Argentinean town were slightly tinted pink by the rising sun. In the morning I went for a short drive around Ushuaia and in the afternoon with the sun still out and the day warming up I went on a wonderful trip into Tierra del Fuego National Park. We drove through this beautiful park stopping at the odd lake and forest, and even at a beach! I spotted a red fox, many different birds including, I think, a condor way above us at one moment. Just as we were leaving Ushuaia in the evening, when we were all ‘tarted up’ for the Welcome Party for cruise number three, we spotted Explorer II [the old Minerva] sailing into port, so we were all out on deck waving and shouting, and the two ships exchanged lots of toots and whistles! Then on to the party and that evening I was invited to join a Swan ‘family’ table for dinner afterwards which was the greatest of fun.
Monday 12 February was a quiet day at sea although I met with friends of friends for drinks and lunch. In the evening I met up with my friend Caroline, the purser, for drinks and dinner in the Bridge Café which was good fun. Had a slightly disturbed night after the emergency medical alarm went off – I heard the next day that sadly one passenger had died during the night. The next morning we were back in the Falklands again, and this time I went to see the King Penguins and Gentoo Penguins at Bluff Cove – spent hours watching the parents all losing their feathers on land and the chicks all playing in the waves! From there back across East Falklands to Port Stanley where I attended a Service of Remembrance at the War Memorial attended my many of us from the ship; the service was taken by the Bishop of Norwich. Then back to the ship for a quick bite before going back on shore to visit some of the battlefields for the afternoon. I was quite late back to the ship so a quick change and then I joined quite a nice dinner table. Early the next morning we arrived back in West Point Island and I spotted some Commerson dolphins [white with black fins] around the ship. I had another wonderful walk across the island – this time in glorious sunshine. Saw many birds and visited the Rockhopper penguin and black-browed albatross colony once again. This time I also walked along some of the coastline and saw some Magellanic penguins as well as many geese and ducks. Had a quiet afternoon in my cabin, and then invited a girlfriend from a pre-cruise tour of China a few years ago for drinks in my cabin, and we dined together afterwards. The next day was a day at sea, and thankfully the sun came back out – at last – and I managed an afternoon on the top deck. In the evening I had a very nice dinner table and one couple [Gortons] invited me to join them for a nightcap afterwards which was fun.
At 6am on Friday 16 February we arrived in Puerto Madryn, and by 8.30 I was off to an Ecological Centre and then to see a sea lion colony; the sea lions were great, but the Centre was very boring. After a quick lunch I spent an hour back on the top deck and then went off to visit Gaiman, a Welsh town about an hour and a half from the ship. Had a little walk around the town but then it started to rain so we curtailed the walk and went to a large tea party with lots of Welsh food! Once back at the ship I had a quick supper in the Bridge Café and a very early night. The next day we were at sea – sadly a rather cloudy day but at least warmer. I met up with a few friends for drinks and lunch [Gerry and the Grooms], and then spent the day in my cabin. Having had a good lunch I decided to skip dinner and have another early night. The next morning was beautiful and warm, so I was happy to return to my old spot on the top deck, at long last! In the evening I had dinner with Graham and Julie James [he is Bishop of Norwich] – a lovely evening, having a good time à la trois!
Early on Monday 19 February we arrived in Buenos Aires. I took myself ashore mid morning to visit my old friend Ralph Ayling only to find he had had to go to Uruguay. So sadly no lunch but his office did organise to send a lot of my bits and pieces home for me which should help the weight of my luggage on my return flight. In the evening my dinner with Sir William and Lady Fraser was cancelled as they were late back from an excursion, but hopefully it will be reinstated later. On Tuesday we were due in to Montevideo by 7am but River Plate traffic delayed us and we eventually arrived at 9am. I went off on a wine-tasting at Juanico Winery, north of Montevideo. A fun morning with some quite good wines. I spent the afternoon on the top deck as we sailed for Rio. In the evening I joined my friends Ann & Tony [V-F] for a drink in their suite, and Geri, the doctor – who is another old friend – also joined us. We had a wonderful evening, dining in the grill and then a nightcap in the Wheeler Bar. Bumped into the Captain and Staff Captain and at last got an invitation to dine with Darius, Staff, and to visit the Bridge for the arrival into Rio. Spent the following day at sea on the top deck and then dined with Darius and another passenger in the Swan Restaurant. Thursday was another lovely, if windy, day at sea so I spent it on the top deck and in the evening went to the Farewell Party for cruise three! Then dined with some of my Swan friends and their relations which was lovely.
On Friday 23 February we cruised into Rio in the morning. I managed to get myself on to the Bridge and viewed this wonderful sight once again. It was absolutely boiling in Rio – over 90 degrees in the shade! I tried to sit on the top deck but it was too hot even for me! So after a light lunch and once everyone had gone off on their tours I sat by the pool and had a few swims – the first time since I have swum on board. In the evening I went ashore to meet up with my De La Rue friends, Trevor and Celia, and we had a wonderful evening at Gero’s restaurant in Ipanema. On Saturday morning I met up with Celia at a shopping centre and we spent a couple of hours wandering around before going to Trevor and Celia’s home for a glass or two of champagne. Then on to join another lady from De La Rue and her boyfriend for an excellent lunch at Esplanada. I then returned to the ship for an evening visit to Corcovado to watch the sunset with a caipirinha! On return to the ship I had an early night!
On Sunday 24th I was up early and off on an excursion to the Tijuca Forest in an open-top jeep which was great fun. We had a short walk once in the Forest and then returned through Rio to the ship in the jeep – rather a hot drive with no clouds in the sky and the temperature soaring but a great ride nonetheless. In the afternoon we sailed for Salvador and I had some wonderful views from my cabin. That evening was the Welcome party – met up with quite a few old friends, and then Henry, my friend from Chichester, and I joined a jolly table for dinner. The next day was a beautiful day which I spent on the top deck, except for a brief visit to the Orpheus Bar at lunch time to join the Singles party. In the evening I opened the bottle of champagne that I had been given on arrival and Henry joined me in downing it before dinner!
We arrived in a rather wet and cloudy Salvador around midday on Tuesday 27 February. However the rain clouds lifted enough for me to set off an hour or so later for an afternoon on the beach. It was not, though, the best of afternoons – the rains returned off and on, the waves were too strong to swim in, and beach was full of chairs and tables. Although we did in the end get some reclining chairs and some sunshine, I have been on better beach excursions than that one. The evening was a quiet one, and I woke up next morning to glorious sunshine for our day at sea, however by 3pm the winds got up and suddenly the rains came down so back to the cabin! In the evening Henry invited me to join him for a drink before dinner so we went to the Orpheus Bar and then the dining room for dinner. The next day, Thursday 1 March, we arrived in Recife at 7am, and by 8am I was off on an excursion to Igarassu to see the first church built in Brazil, and from there on to see a Dutch Fort and also a centre for the preservation of manatees before going to a beautiful beach at Itamaraca where I had a lovely swim and soaked up the sun for a short while. In the afternoon I went on a lovely river cruise around Recife, albeit with too many people on board! In the evening there was a Brazilian show on board given by local dancers from Recife; a good evening although it finished on a low when I had a very disappointing discussion the Hotel Director who has treated me so badly whilst on board.
Friday 2 and Saturday 3 March were days at sea spent on the top deck although the sun disappeared on both afternoons! Did see lots of flying fish and even some dolphins during the day. I had dinner with some gay friends on Friday and some Scottish friends on Saturday. Early on Sunday morning we arrived at Itaqui, and after some bureaucratic delays we went ashore to visit Sao Luis; in the morning I visited the incredible Sitio do Piranhenga which used to be a chalk factory but is now an ecological centre used for the disadvantaged, and in the afternoon I walked around the little historic town, and got very wet in the process. In the evening I had a lovely dinner with the Cruise Director and a couple of other friends. Monday was another day at sea – a lovely morning but a slightly cloudy and wet afternoon, although we did have the Crossing Line Ceremony after lunch – just before the rains came. In the evening I dined with three of my Swan friends. At midday on Tuesday 6 March we arrived at the Ile de Royale in French Guiana, and were tendered ashore for a few hours. This was a prison colony and was a slightly depressing place, especially as it was rather showery when we were there, but there was a wonderful walk all the way around the island which I enjoyed. In the evening I dined – at last – with the Hotel Director and the Captain. It has only taken nine weeks to dine with the two people whom I knew best when I boarded.
Very early on the morning of Wednesday 7 March we started our cruise down the Suriname river – a very shallow river so we had to time it that we went over the shallow sand bank at the right minute! We eventually arrived at Paramaribo at 8.30am. It was a very wet morning and with no excursions I spent it on board. The afternoon was also very wet, and I had the worst guide of the cruise, so my visit to Paramaribo was not the best. Had a quiet dinner and an early night. The next day was a wonderfully sunny day at sea and in the evening it was the final Farewell Party. Had a very nice table hosted by Matt with Henry and Tony Dyson’s sister and her husband, and after dinner we spent a little while in the Orpheus Bar. Early on the morning of Friday 9 March we arrived in Barbados, and by 9.30 I was on my way to Accra Beach to spend the morning there. The afternoon was the top deck and in the evening I said ‘goodbye’ to all by friends by the Pool Bar listening to a steel band playing on the Pool Deck. As I looked out from my cabin on Saturday morning I could see a turtle in the Caribbean sea! At 11.30 on Saturday morning, 10 March, I walked off Minerva for the last time and there wasn’t a soul there to say ‘farewell’, all rather sad, but some of the officers on board were a strange lot.
Then on to the Bougainvillea Beach Resort for three days. However, they let me down very badly saying they had no room for the Saturday night and transferred me to another hotel for the night. Not a good start to my relaxation on Barbados. However the weather was beautiful so spent the afternoon in the sunshine. Eventually moved into the Bougainvillea Beach Resort the next day, but not a very satisfactory outcome. They still keep me waiting for my room, and give me one of their worst rooms – so drink some liquid sunshine and go back to the sunshine fast for a few days before returning home.
March 07
on her swansong around South America
I left a very foggy Gatwick on Thursday 21 December and arrived safely in Barbados at 7.15 that evening and checked into the reasonably comfortable Bougainvillea Beach Resort in Christchurch on the south coast of the island. The first day was spent stocking up my kitchenette and sorting out my computer, but after that I did nothing but soak up the sun. I spent most of my first week just lying in the sunshine by the quiet pool [where there were not too many kids!],swimming in the pool and occasionally have a bounce around in the waves which you get on the south coast of Barbados. Most evenings I relaxed in my room. On week two I rang up a few friends and on the Friday had a lovely lunch at the beautiful Champers near Accra Beach with some old diplomatic Bajan friends which was good fun. Other than that I continued in the style of week one until Thursday 4 January when I packed up and left for Minerva.
I arrived at Minerva mid afternoon to start my 66 day cruise and met up with lots of old crew friends. Was able to unpack and sort myself out before any of the UK planes arrived. In the evening met up with my old friend Richard [the out-going Captain] and his wife Ada – we had drinks and dinner together and then had a nightcap in the Orpheus Bar with some other friends before hitting the sack! The next morning I did a tour of Historic Barbados and went shopping in the Terminal and in Bridgetown in the afternoon.
After a lovely day at sea and a rather average Welcome Party, we arrived at La Guaira, the port of Caracas at 7am and I set off on a slow bus trip to Caracas by 9am. The road was slow as the main bridge collapsed last year and they are now building a new bridge. Had a great cable car trip up to the top of Mount Avila with spectacular views of Caracas, and then visited Quinta Anauco Colonial Museum and the National Pantheon before returning to the ship for a 4pm departure for Aruba. That evening had dinner with a couple of my ‘gay’ friends before retiring to an early cot. On Monday 8 January we arrived in Aruba at 8am and soon after I took myself on a walking tour of the town, Oranjestad. Having been there before I just wandered around to remind myself of the place before returning to the top deck to soak up the beautiful sunshine. We sailed for Curacao at 1pm. After spending the afternoon on the top deck I wandered into Willemstad, the capital of Curacao, on our arrival there at 6.15pm. However it was dark and it was not easy to wander around so I swiftly returned to the ship and joined a nice table for dinner. On Tuesday 9th January we arrived in Guaranao Bay at 6.30am and an hour later I was on a bus en route for Coro, a delightful little Venezuelan town. Sadly I had a bad guide, but met up with Gerry, a cheerful guy, and we took a walk around the town once we got rid of the guide. Then back to the top deck for the afternoon. In the evening there was a lovely party for all singles on the 66 day cruise and we all had dinner together afterwards which was fun. Wednesday was a day at sea so I spent it on the top deck and in the evening had a very nice dinner with the Cruise Director and Cruise Manager and one other passenger – all very select!
On Thursday 11 January we approached the Panama Canal early in the morning and by 10am I went on to the Bridge to spend the morning there watching us go through the Locks. It was a wonderful morning – in the company of the retired First Sea Lord! Around 12.30 I was invited to some friends who have a suite on the front of the ship for a drink as we emerged from the last Gatun Lock. After a fun lunch with some newly made friends as we sailed through Gatun Lake, I went back to the Bridge to watch us go through Pedro Miguel and Miraflores Locks before arriving in Balboa. That evening I joined some of my Swan friends for a great Indian Buffet in the Bridge Café. Early the following morning I was up and off on an excursion to visit Miraflores Lock and see the exhibition that they have there, and in the afternoon I went on a walking tour of Colonial Panama and also drove through the city as it is today and then visited Old Panama which is now just ruins. We got back to the ship just in time for her to sail at 6pm for Ecuador. In the evening went to a good reception for all those on board for 66 days followed by a nice table at dinner. The following day was a day at sea doing not very much! It was a bit grey for most of the day so caught up with some computer work in my cabin. In the evening met up with an old Minerva friend [Michael Latham] and his partner for dinner and then had an early night.
On Sunday 14 January we arrived in Manta, Ecuador around 4.30am! A large group of people were leaving early for a day trip to Quito. I went on a trip around Manta to see how Panama hats are made, to visit a Tagua [nut] factory to see how buttons and crafts are made from these nuts and to visit the local museum – very interesting morning. Back for lunch and in the afternoon we had Andean Indian folklore dancers on board performing for us. In the evening I met up with some old Minerva friends [Tudeimans] and we dined in the Grill, after which I bumped into my good friend Niranjan, the Chef, and we had a good few nightcaps in the Orpheus bar. The following day was at sea – spent the morning on the top deck and saw some whales playing quite close by. In the afternoon we had the Crossing the Line ceremony having just crossed the Equator, and in the evening it was the Farewell Dinner for the first cruise and I had a very good fun table.
We arrived in Salaverry on Tuesday 16 January at about 6.30am and by 9.15 I was on my way to visit the little town Trujillo and from there to the two Moche Temples – of the Sun and the Moon. In the afternoon I visited the adobe city of Chan Chan and saw the Dragon Temple and the Tschudi Palace – a day of incredible archaeological sites. In the evening I was invited to a lovely drinks party in a suite with some friends [John & Jan] and then we all went on to dinner followed by nightcaps! The next morning I was up and about early and saw whales from my balcony window. We had a morning at sea before arriving at Callao at midday and in the afternoon I went on quite a good walking tour of Down Town Lima. In the evening those of us on the 66 day cruise were invited to a private champagne reception at Larco Herrara Museum which was interesting and fun – then back to the ship for a snack supper. The following morning I went to visit Pachacama – an Inca site of palaces and pyramids followed by a visit to the wonderful Lima Gold Museum. In the afternoon I took myself off into the Miraflores area of Lima for a wander around the shops. That day MV Discovery had sailed into Callao for the day – I heard that my friend the Captain was on board but getting off the ship that day – but I sadly didn’t find him. Watched her sail in the evening, and had a quiet dinner with old friends and new.
On Friday 19 January I visited a Hacienda to watch a wonderful display of Paso horses in the morning, then returned to the ship to watch us sail for General San Martin, another coastal Peruvian town, at 3pm. In the evening we had the Welcome Party and I joined friends [Vaughan-Frances] at quite a good table, had a drink by the pool afterwards and had a chat with Captain Mark en route bed! Very early the next morning we arrived at General San Martin a small place in the coastal Peruvian desert and watched seals playing in the sea around the ship. I went off on a tour of Paracas National Park, visiting a wonderful little fishing village in the middle of the desert, a museum and a fantastic rock formation, then back to the top deck. We sailed for Matarani at 4 o’clock that afternoon. In the evening I joined an interesting American couple [Lloyd & Marianne] for dinner. Sunday 20 January was a day at sea which I spent on the top deck in glorious sunshine, although I went to a ‘singles’ party at lunchtime which wasn’t up to much! Saw quite a lot of sea life that day including whales and dolphins. In the evening had a rather difficult dinner table but then enjoyed a drink with some of my Swan friends around the pool.
On Monday morning, 22 January, I left on a day-long trip to Arequipa – a wonderful day touring Santa Catalina monastery, as well as the cathedral and various churches in Arequipa, and enjoying a lovely lunch up there. Back in the evening to enjoy a relaxing dinner with my Swan friend, Paul Cranny and some other guests. Early on Tuesday 23 January we arrived in Arica in Chile, and at 9am I went off on a tour of the little town of Arica and saw some lovely Chilean dancing during our tour. In the afternoon I went on a wonderful coastal walk with some fantastic views and saw lots of birds and sea lions. We sailed for Valparaiso at 8pm after which I had a quiet evening and an early night. The next day was a day at sea which I spent on the top deck and during the day spotted sharks, dolphins and flying fish. In the evening I was invited to a lovely dinner party with five old friends [Duncan, V-Frances, Plattens]. Thursday 25th was another day at sea which once again I spent on the top deck in glorious sunshine and had a quiet dinner in the evening.
On Friday 26 January we arrived in Valparaiso in Chile, just ahead of the Queen Mary 2 so we were able to watch her arrive. In the morning I went on a short walking tour of Valparaiso with their amazing little houses perched on edges of mountains all over the town. After a swift lunch I went on a wine tasting trip to Indominta winery in the Casablanca valley – an excellent afternoon under cloudless skies. In the evening I dined with the Catholic priest [Father Brian] who is an old friend even if I am not a catholic! Saturday was a day at sea spent of course on the top deck – blue blue sky and a slightly chilly wind but I found a protected corner and spent the day in the sunshine. In the evening one of my Swan friends, Matt, came for drinks on my balcony – we downed a couple of pisco sours – and then had an Indian dinner in the Bridge Café. After a couple of nightcaps in the Orpheus bar I retired to bed!
On Sunday morning we cruised up the Chilean fjords to Chiloé island and in the afternoon I did a tour of some of the churches on the island. Then had a quiet dinner and earlyish bed. The following morning we arrived in Puerto Montt very early and by 7.30 I was off on a tour of Petrohué Falls and Lake Llanquihue as well as Lake Todos Los Santos – quite a good but rather damp morning and we could not see the nearby volcanoes. In the afternoon the sun came out as I went off on a wonderful tour of Frutillar and Puerto Varas with a good guide and we saw the stunning volcanoes very well. In the evening a quiet dinner table and an early night. On Tuesday 30 January we spent the morning cruising through the Chilean fjords until we reached Chacabuco, a tiny port in the south of Chile. Most of us were taken on a wonderful drive through scenic countryside along the Rio Simpson to Coyaique, the capital of Patagonia. Coyaique itself was not much of a place but I enjoyed the drive there and back stopping occasionally along the way for various views. We arrived back at the ship quite late but I had a nice dinner table after which I had another early night. However it became quite rough during the night so didn’t get much sleep as we rocked and rolled and shuddered our way across the Pacific Ocean! And so we started our four days at sea cruising around Cape Horn to the Falklands. I spent the first day watching the wonderful scenery from my cabin and in the evening I was the guest of one of the Swan staff [Pru] for a nice dinner party and a few nightcaps afterwards. On the second day I was up fairly early to see the Amalia Glazier, where two ice flows meet, an amazing sight and then we cruised on through the fjords all day. It was now getting colder and colder and at times very windy indeed – so windy in fact that the Captain forbade us to go on the outside decks at one time! In the evening I met up with three of my Swan girlfriends [Lynn, Lucy & Julia] and we had a lovely girlie evening! The next morning we continued our way through the fjords and entered the Magellan Straits – a few rough moments but on the whole a relatively smooth passage to Puerto Williams, the southern most Chilean town, where we anchored for an hour to get clearance to go around Cape Horn. From there I saw so many birds it was incredible – islands of cormorants, penguins flying through the sea rather like dolphins, and many many others. By 8.30pm we had arrived at Cape Horn, and we slowly sailed around the Horn – a truly amazing experience. So rugged and desolate and yet with a craggy beauty!
On Sunday 4 February we arrived in the Falkland Islands. To start with the wind was too great to allow us on to the tenders, but eventually the Captain was allowed to take us further into Port William Sound and so we were eventually able to disembark into tenders. I went to Sparrow Cove – a beautiful bay surrounded by rough terrain and from there in a 4x4 across this extraordinary countryside to Kidney Cove to spend an hour at the Gentoo and King Penguin colony – a wonderful but bitterly cold morning. Then back to the ship for a quick bite of lunch before going ashore to Port Stanley where I went on a walking tour of the delightful and colourful little town. The people were very friendly and you could see many different species of geese, ducks, birds etc all around you. I returned to the ship quite late, for a quick change, quiet dinner and early night. We spent the night sailing around from East Falklands to West Falklands and past some amazing little islands until we arrived at West Point Island around midday on Monday morning – the sea there was full of penguins and birds of all sorts and kinds. I took a tender ashore and walked for half an hour across the island to Devil’s Point, seeing Upland Geese and Striated Caracara as we walked. At Devil’s Point we found so many Rockfeller Penguins and Black-browed Albatross that we couldn’t believe it! We were so close to them all – most of them with chicks – absolutely wonderful –and we are able to spend about 30-40 minutes there. I then made the half hour walk back to the tender and on to the ship. That night was pretty rough as we crossed from the Falklands to the Magellan Straits and we continued to roll and bounce along all morning too! The afternoon was a little better and in the evening I went to the Farewell Party for cruise two! Met up with some old friends [V-Fraqnces] and we dined together with a few others in the dining room, followed by a nightcap before I went to bed.
Early Wednesday 7 February we arrived in Punta Arenas, The Antarctica Gate!, and I went of on a City Tour in the morning. It was bitterly cold but it was quite an enjoyable tour of the little southern most city. In the afternoon I went on a drive to Port Famine and Fort Bulnes – they were not the most interesting of places but the drive to and from was wonderful – saw guanacos [like lamas], rhea [like ostriches], dolphins and loads of sea birds as we drove along through the wonderful countryside. In the evening I met up with some new friends [Underwoods] for dinner, plus nightcaps and dancing afterwards which was good fun. In the morning I went on an hour and a half bus journey to Otway Sound. We drove through some amazing scenery across ranch after ranch after ranch. It was absolutely freezing at Otway sound – with about five layers on I kept warm, but my face was stinging because of the biting wind which was so strong you could only just stand up, let alone walk for twenty minutes to the Magellanic penguin colony. However, once there, it was absolutely incredible to see them all with their chicks and in their burrows. Am amazing morning. On our way back to the ship we saw rhea and alpacha to name but a few! After lunch I strolled into Town for a wander but soon returned to the warmth of the ship. In the evening about 100 of us went to a local estancia for a wonderful barbeque and show, and then home to an early night.
On Friday morning, 9 February, I went on a long walk through the Magallanes Reserve Park – a good, if cold walk high up into the Park with some stunning views from the top. Back to a little lunch and a quiet afternoon in my cabin followed by a nice dinner in the Swan Restaurant with old friends [Dorlings]. The next day was a quiet day at sea although the weather was far from quiet – winds gusting at 100mph in the afternoon. Went to the Singles party at lunchtime and met up with the Bishop of Norwich, an old friend of mine. He and his wife and I then went on to have lunch together. In the late evening we attempted to round Cape Horn for the second time, but this time we failed – the weather was too bad – the wind was gusting at 100mph! At 6.30am on Sunday 11 February we arrived in Ushuaia [Ush-why-a] the capital of Tierra del Fuego – the southern most island of South America which is half Chilean and half of Argentinean. It was a gorgeous, if cool, morning - the snow-capped mountains all around the little Argentinean town were slightly tinted pink by the rising sun. In the morning I went for a short drive around Ushuaia and in the afternoon with the sun still out and the day warming up I went on a wonderful trip into Tierra del Fuego National Park. We drove through this beautiful park stopping at the odd lake and forest, and even at a beach! I spotted a red fox, many different birds including, I think, a condor way above us at one moment. Just as we were leaving Ushuaia in the evening, when we were all ‘tarted up’ for the Welcome Party for cruise number three, we spotted Explorer II [the old Minerva] sailing into port, so we were all out on deck waving and shouting, and the two ships exchanged lots of toots and whistles! Then on to the party and that evening I was invited to join a Swan ‘family’ table for dinner afterwards which was the greatest of fun.
Monday 12 February was a quiet day at sea although I met with friends of friends for drinks and lunch. In the evening I met up with my friend Caroline, the purser, for drinks and dinner in the Bridge Café which was good fun. Had a slightly disturbed night after the emergency medical alarm went off – I heard the next day that sadly one passenger had died during the night. The next morning we were back in the Falklands again, and this time I went to see the King Penguins and Gentoo Penguins at Bluff Cove – spent hours watching the parents all losing their feathers on land and the chicks all playing in the waves! From there back across East Falklands to Port Stanley where I attended a Service of Remembrance at the War Memorial attended my many of us from the ship; the service was taken by the Bishop of Norwich. Then back to the ship for a quick bite before going back on shore to visit some of the battlefields for the afternoon. I was quite late back to the ship so a quick change and then I joined quite a nice dinner table. Early the next morning we arrived back in West Point Island and I spotted some Commerson dolphins [white with black fins] around the ship. I had another wonderful walk across the island – this time in glorious sunshine. Saw many birds and visited the Rockhopper penguin and black-browed albatross colony once again. This time I also walked along some of the coastline and saw some Magellanic penguins as well as many geese and ducks. Had a quiet afternoon in my cabin, and then invited a girlfriend from a pre-cruise tour of China a few years ago for drinks in my cabin, and we dined together afterwards. The next day was a day at sea, and thankfully the sun came back out – at last – and I managed an afternoon on the top deck. In the evening I had a very nice dinner table and one couple [Gortons] invited me to join them for a nightcap afterwards which was fun.
At 6am on Friday 16 February we arrived in Puerto Madryn, and by 8.30 I was off to an Ecological Centre and then to see a sea lion colony; the sea lions were great, but the Centre was very boring. After a quick lunch I spent an hour back on the top deck and then went off to visit Gaiman, a Welsh town about an hour and a half from the ship. Had a little walk around the town but then it started to rain so we curtailed the walk and went to a large tea party with lots of Welsh food! Once back at the ship I had a quick supper in the Bridge Café and a very early night. The next day we were at sea – sadly a rather cloudy day but at least warmer. I met up with a few friends for drinks and lunch [Gerry and the Grooms], and then spent the day in my cabin. Having had a good lunch I decided to skip dinner and have another early night. The next morning was beautiful and warm, so I was happy to return to my old spot on the top deck, at long last! In the evening I had dinner with Graham and Julie James [he is Bishop of Norwich] – a lovely evening, having a good time à la trois!
Early on Monday 19 February we arrived in Buenos Aires. I took myself ashore mid morning to visit my old friend Ralph Ayling only to find he had had to go to Uruguay. So sadly no lunch but his office did organise to send a lot of my bits and pieces home for me which should help the weight of my luggage on my return flight. In the evening my dinner with Sir William and Lady Fraser was cancelled as they were late back from an excursion, but hopefully it will be reinstated later. On Tuesday we were due in to Montevideo by 7am but River Plate traffic delayed us and we eventually arrived at 9am. I went off on a wine-tasting at Juanico Winery, north of Montevideo. A fun morning with some quite good wines. I spent the afternoon on the top deck as we sailed for Rio. In the evening I joined my friends Ann & Tony [V-F] for a drink in their suite, and Geri, the doctor – who is another old friend – also joined us. We had a wonderful evening, dining in the grill and then a nightcap in the Wheeler Bar. Bumped into the Captain and Staff Captain and at last got an invitation to dine with Darius, Staff, and to visit the Bridge for the arrival into Rio. Spent the following day at sea on the top deck and then dined with Darius and another passenger in the Swan Restaurant. Thursday was another lovely, if windy, day at sea so I spent it on the top deck and in the evening went to the Farewell Party for cruise three! Then dined with some of my Swan friends and their relations which was lovely.
On Friday 23 February we cruised into Rio in the morning. I managed to get myself on to the Bridge and viewed this wonderful sight once again. It was absolutely boiling in Rio – over 90 degrees in the shade! I tried to sit on the top deck but it was too hot even for me! So after a light lunch and once everyone had gone off on their tours I sat by the pool and had a few swims – the first time since I have swum on board. In the evening I went ashore to meet up with my De La Rue friends, Trevor and Celia, and we had a wonderful evening at Gero’s restaurant in Ipanema. On Saturday morning I met up with Celia at a shopping centre and we spent a couple of hours wandering around before going to Trevor and Celia’s home for a glass or two of champagne. Then on to join another lady from De La Rue and her boyfriend for an excellent lunch at Esplanada. I then returned to the ship for an evening visit to Corcovado to watch the sunset with a caipirinha! On return to the ship I had an early night!
On Sunday 24th I was up early and off on an excursion to the Tijuca Forest in an open-top jeep which was great fun. We had a short walk once in the Forest and then returned through Rio to the ship in the jeep – rather a hot drive with no clouds in the sky and the temperature soaring but a great ride nonetheless. In the afternoon we sailed for Salvador and I had some wonderful views from my cabin. That evening was the Welcome party – met up with quite a few old friends, and then Henry, my friend from Chichester, and I joined a jolly table for dinner. The next day was a beautiful day which I spent on the top deck, except for a brief visit to the Orpheus Bar at lunch time to join the Singles party. In the evening I opened the bottle of champagne that I had been given on arrival and Henry joined me in downing it before dinner!
We arrived in a rather wet and cloudy Salvador around midday on Tuesday 27 February. However the rain clouds lifted enough for me to set off an hour or so later for an afternoon on the beach. It was not, though, the best of afternoons – the rains returned off and on, the waves were too strong to swim in, and beach was full of chairs and tables. Although we did in the end get some reclining chairs and some sunshine, I have been on better beach excursions than that one. The evening was a quiet one, and I woke up next morning to glorious sunshine for our day at sea, however by 3pm the winds got up and suddenly the rains came down so back to the cabin! In the evening Henry invited me to join him for a drink before dinner so we went to the Orpheus Bar and then the dining room for dinner. The next day, Thursday 1 March, we arrived in Recife at 7am, and by 8am I was off on an excursion to Igarassu to see the first church built in Brazil, and from there on to see a Dutch Fort and also a centre for the preservation of manatees before going to a beautiful beach at Itamaraca where I had a lovely swim and soaked up the sun for a short while. In the afternoon I went on a lovely river cruise around Recife, albeit with too many people on board! In the evening there was a Brazilian show on board given by local dancers from Recife; a good evening although it finished on a low when I had a very disappointing discussion the Hotel Director who has treated me so badly whilst on board.
Friday 2 and Saturday 3 March were days at sea spent on the top deck although the sun disappeared on both afternoons! Did see lots of flying fish and even some dolphins during the day. I had dinner with some gay friends on Friday and some Scottish friends on Saturday. Early on Sunday morning we arrived at Itaqui, and after some bureaucratic delays we went ashore to visit Sao Luis; in the morning I visited the incredible Sitio do Piranhenga which used to be a chalk factory but is now an ecological centre used for the disadvantaged, and in the afternoon I walked around the little historic town, and got very wet in the process. In the evening I had a lovely dinner with the Cruise Director and a couple of other friends. Monday was another day at sea – a lovely morning but a slightly cloudy and wet afternoon, although we did have the Crossing Line Ceremony after lunch – just before the rains came. In the evening I dined with three of my Swan friends. At midday on Tuesday 6 March we arrived at the Ile de Royale in French Guiana, and were tendered ashore for a few hours. This was a prison colony and was a slightly depressing place, especially as it was rather showery when we were there, but there was a wonderful walk all the way around the island which I enjoyed. In the evening I dined – at last – with the Hotel Director and the Captain. It has only taken nine weeks to dine with the two people whom I knew best when I boarded.
Very early on the morning of Wednesday 7 March we started our cruise down the Suriname river – a very shallow river so we had to time it that we went over the shallow sand bank at the right minute! We eventually arrived at Paramaribo at 8.30am. It was a very wet morning and with no excursions I spent it on board. The afternoon was also very wet, and I had the worst guide of the cruise, so my visit to Paramaribo was not the best. Had a quiet dinner and an early night. The next day was a wonderfully sunny day at sea and in the evening it was the final Farewell Party. Had a very nice table hosted by Matt with Henry and Tony Dyson’s sister and her husband, and after dinner we spent a little while in the Orpheus Bar. Early on the morning of Friday 9 March we arrived in Barbados, and by 9.30 I was on my way to Accra Beach to spend the morning there. The afternoon was the top deck and in the evening I said ‘goodbye’ to all by friends by the Pool Bar listening to a steel band playing on the Pool Deck. As I looked out from my cabin on Saturday morning I could see a turtle in the Caribbean sea! At 11.30 on Saturday morning, 10 March, I walked off Minerva for the last time and there wasn’t a soul there to say ‘farewell’, all rather sad, but some of the officers on board were a strange lot.
Then on to the Bougainvillea Beach Resort for three days. However, they let me down very badly saying they had no room for the Saturday night and transferred me to another hotel for the night. Not a good start to my relaxation on Barbados. However the weather was beautiful so spent the afternoon in the sunshine. Eventually moved into the Bougainvillea Beach Resort the next day, but not a very satisfactory outcome. They still keep me waiting for my room, and give me one of their worst rooms – so drink some liquid sunshine and go back to the sunshine fast for a few days before returning home.
March 07
posted by Anne Bullen | 10:26 PM
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